Last weekend, I pulled into a Kum & Go in Clear Lake, Iowa (death-place of Buddy Holly & Ritchie Valens, etc.) and found an old prune-colored man praying the Islamic asr right out front. The rednecks and the truckers just couldn't figure him. At one point, two teenagers in coveralls pulled up beside him in their massive extended-cab pickup, yelled something I couldn't make out, then sped away, exhaust clouding around him. He was maybe seventy-five years old.